|
|
|
How much more work will I have to do besides fit the spacers?
Are there any disadvantages of this kit over a suspension lift?
I've been told I already have a body lift can I fit this kit as well or instead of?
How can I tell if I already have a body lift?
I don't see my question answered here, can you help me?
|
|
On the Pajero, Shogun or Montero the 2" body lift is the easiest to fit. Although not difficult to fit the 3" lift, you should be prepared to do the following:
You will either have to 'drop' the radiator or fit a electric fan
the following hoses will have to be lengthened:
PAS cooling pipe to steering box hose
top hose on radiator if not dropped
The hose to the clutch slave cylinder is border line and may have to be lengthened as is the hose for the brake servo
The earthing bond to the chassis may possibly have to be lengthened or a new bonding point sourced
The fuel line pipes from and to the tank are sometimes bolted to the body near the tank this would have to be undone
And the bits you shouldn't have to move:
the tank should be bolted to the chassis
The rear brake hose should run between the axle and chassis
The metal brake lines feeding between the body and the chassis usually are coiled and will adjust to the extra height with no problem
The steering column has enough auto adjustment to accommodate up to at least the 4.5" kit
Return to questions
|
|
|
The maximum amount of suspension lift you will be able to get on a Pajero will be 2" due to the independent suspension on the front. This is attained by 'winding up' the torsion bars that act as the front springs, adding +2" springs or 2" spring spacers to the rear and +2" shocks all around. The Xpajun Body Lift consists of blocks - spacers - that fit on the body mounting points to lift the body off the chassis. Both types of lift raise the look of the car obviously suspension lifts will give a slightly better break-over angle and better approach and departure angles. While lifting the body will not alter the break-over angle in it's own right, it may improve the approach and departure angles if they have been limited by body overhangs. However, seeing possibly the main reason for lifting the body is to allow bigger tyres to be fitted then a body lift will allow better approach, departure and break-over angles with bigger wheels/tyres. A body lift is a good, and economical, place to start in lifting your truck whether it be for the looks only or for getting more out of it off-road, so it would be fair to say that there is no real disadvantage to it - much advantage though.
Return to questions
|
|
|
On the Pajero range many of the vehicles leave the factory with what is known as a 'winter pack' and one of the thing included is a body lift to allow clearance for snow chains to be fitted. The lift varies between 1" an 2" and is done by repositioning the mount points on the chassis so you will be able to fit this kit as well.
Return to questions
|
|
|
Go to the rear wheel arch and look at the chassis behind the wheel. The chassis and body at this point is normally touching (or are within 10mm of touching) if you have a bigger gap than 10mm (e.g. 20mm or 40mm) for example, you can insert one or two fingers between the body and chassis, then you have a body lift. At the front end of the wheel arch is a body mount point consisting of a bracket with a metal cup containing a rubber insert with a steel washer on top. If the steel washer touches the body then you do not have a after-market body lift.
Return to questions
|
|
|
Click here for more FAQs.
Return to questions
|
|
) 
