following DIY outlines the procedure for removing the window regulator
carrier panel, replacing the window regulator clips and the door lock
module on a MKIV Golf/Bora/Jetta. Please do these procedures at your
own risk and be ready to make small adjustments while doing them. Also,
please be observant while removing parts so that they go back together
Window Regulator Repair Kit cost £57.36 + VAT from VW Dealers
or you can Buy one for less from our online
Shop. The set comes with 2 clips and a cable/Spool reel assembly
(only needs to be used if the existing cables are damaged - this part
is not a redesigned/upgraded piece), also the Original Diagonal Cable
has to be re-used on the 4dr, Right Kits as this is not included.
tools needed to replace the window regulator clips and/or door lock
module are a flat-head screwdriver, a Phillips screwdriver, T20 and
T30 Torx drivers, a 10mm socket (wrench or driver), an 8mm triple square
tool (M8 / 8mm XZN Spline Tool), a rag, a sheet or blanket and a roll
of duct tape. A drill and a set of bits (not sure exactly what size
bit) can also be used during the procedure to disconnect the door lock
module from the carrier panel. Doing so reduces the number of steps
necessary to remove the carrier panel from the door (more detail on
this is given below). If you are replacing the door lock module and
do not use the drill to disconnect the door lock module from the carrier
panel, you'll also need a small punch to push out the plastic rivets
that secure the door lock module to the carrier panel. This is the recommended
method since the rivets are not destroyed and can be reused when reinstalling
the carrier panel on the door.
the procedure should take between 1 and 3 hours, depending on experience.
I have done the procedure (replacing the window regulator clips) four
times and this most recent time it took me 2.5 hours, mostly because
I spent a lot of time taking pics and notes about the procedure for
this DIY. If I hadn't been taking pics and notes, it would have taken
between 1 and 1.5 hours.
The procedure below is tkane from a US Car & is for the front passenger's
door (UK Drivers Side) specifically. The procedure for the driver's
side door is nearly identical, except that the parts are a mirror image
of those of the passenger's door. Specific differences between the passenger's
and driver's door (very few) will be mentioned in the text.
procedure below assumes that the window clips have not completely failed
and that the window still works (moves up and down with full range of
motion). If your clips have failed and the window has fallen into the
door, the procedure will be slightly different. I will try to address
these differences in the text.
a few of the pictures were taken on a previous occasion (when the driver's
door clips were replaced) so there may be slight differences in the
colors of parts and of the backgrounds. Please ignore any continuity
inconsistencies. If you follow the procedure as written using the pictures
as a reference, you should not have any problems completing the procedure.)
Remove the Door Trim, Please visit this link;
I - REMOVING THE WINDOW REGULATOR CARRIER PANEL
Remove the inner door trim panel (shown below).
2. Once the panel is off, you should see something like this. FYI, I
have aftermarket speakers, so your woofers will look different if you
have stock speakers. Also, there is some Dynamat on my window regulator
carrier panel (the black panel bolted to the inside of the door) surrounding
the woofer. This is not present on a stock panel.
3. Disconnect the harness connector from the top of the woofer. The
approximate location of the connector on a stock woofer is shown below.
4. Disconnect the harness connectors for the tweeter and side-view mirror,
indicated by the red arrows in the picture below.
5. Remove the harnesses from the harness carrier (indicated by the yellow
arrow), as shown below.
6. Using a screwdriver, unplug the two rubber grommets that cover the
access holes for the window regulator clips. One of the grommets is
7. If your window still works (i.e., the clips have not completely broken
and the window still moves up and down), continue on with step 8 through
11 and then go directly to step 13 (skip step 12). If your window has
fallen into the door, go directly to step 12.
Depending on the current position of the window, raise/lower the window
so that the window regulator clips at the bottom of the window can be
seen through the access holes, as shown below. Since the door panel
is off, you'll need to use the window controls on the 'other' door to
9. The next step is to temporarily support the window glass while the
regulator clips are being changed. Place a rag over the top of the door.
Apply a piece of duct tape to the outside of the window, up and over
the top of the door and then to the inside of the window. I recommend
doing this diagonally with two opposing pieces of tape, as shown below.
ATTENTION: Please make sure to completely secure the window with
the duct tape. The removal of the window regulator carrier panel requires
that the entire weight of the window glass be supported by the tape.
For this reason, I only recommend using duct tape. Other types of tape
may not be able to support the weight of the window glass. Since the
window may have to be supported by the tape for 1-2 hours or more, periodically
check to make sure the tape is holding properly and is not peeling away
from the glass. If this occurs, the window glass may fall into the door
Remove the 10mm bolt that secures each window regulator clip (two total)
to the window glass, as shown below. If you are only replacing the door
lock module (i.e., not replacing the clips), you do not need to remove
the bolt, only loosen it.
11. Lower the window regulator clips approximately 4-6" using the window
controls on the 'other' door. The clips should disconnect from the bottom
of the window - this will help in removing the carrier panel later on.
Go directly to step 13 (skip step 12).
If the regulator clips fail and the window falls into the door, it can
be difficult to remove the carrier panel since the window often 'gets
in the way'. If possible, try to remove the window from the door completely.
This almost definitely requires the help of a second person. Attempt
to pull the window up by its top edge. If you can raise the window nearly
out of the door, it probably means that both clips have definitely failed.
Try to raise the window so that the clips can be seen through the access
holes described in step 8. If this is possible, remove the 10mm bolts,
as described in step 10 and slide the clips off. Once the clips are
off, remove the window from the door by pulling it up and out of the
door. This is easiest if you rotate the rear edge out first and pivot
the window around the lower front corner toward the front of the car.
The window should come out of the door easily. If you're successful
in doing this, put the window aside in a safe place. If you are not
able to remove the window from the door (because it wasn't possible,
not because you didn't try), it may mean that one of the regulator clips
is still fully or partially intact. If this is the case, you may have
to improvise a little during later steps to remove the carrier panel.
I can't be more specific about this problem, since each different situation
will have it's own solution.
Please be extremely careful when removing the window glass from the
door. Make sure to have a strong grip on the glass at all times or it
may fall and break.
Disconnect the harness connector from the regulator motor by pulling
down on the retaining slide, as shown below.
14. As you pull down on the retaining slide, the harness connector will
slide toward the front of the car and off of the regulator motor, as
15. Check to see if the door lock module is riveted to the carrier panel,
as shown in the picture below. Normally, the lock module is riveted
to the panel, but if your regulator clips have been replaced already,
the rivets may not be present. VW techs are notorious for not reinstalling
the rivets when replacing the regulator clips. If your lock module is
not riveted to the panel, perform step 16. If your lock module is riveted
to the panel, you have two options. You can (1) drill out the rivets
and continue on with step 16 or you can (2) leave the rivets intact
and go directly to step 17. Option 2 is the preferred method since the
rivets can be reused when reinstalling the carrier panel on the door
- new rivets will not need to be purchased. If you plan on replacing
the door lock module, you must perform all of the related steps (16
through 24 - do not skip any of these steps).
16. Pop off the rubber grommets for the inner door handle release cable
and the door lock pin (indicated by the yellow arrows in the picture
below) and then push the grommets through their respective holes in
the carrier panel.
doing this, go directly to step 25 - Do not perform steps 17-24 unless
you are replacing the door lock module.
you are fitting our Delock Kit perform steps 17-20 & then go to
you are replacing the door lock module, you MUST continue on with step
17. Remove the small plastic tab on the rear edge of the door with a
screwdriver. The tab is indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture
18. Behind the plastic tab is a retaining screw which is used to secure
the blank in the door handle, indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture
below. On the driver's side door, the screw secures the piece which
surrounds the door lock key slot.
19. Loosen (but do not completely remove) the retaining screw with a
T20 Torx driver. The screw actually has a very small triple square head,
but a T20 driver works perfectly. The retaining screw can be seen in
the picture below.
20. Loosen the retaining screw enough so that the handle blank slides
out of the door. The passenger's and driver's side pieces can be seen
in the pictures below. On my car, the screws needed to be turned approximately
13-15 turns for the pieces to slide out. Also, you may need to pull
out on the door handle slightly to allow each piece to slide completely
21. The outer handle is connected to the door lock module by a small
cable (red arrow in picture below). The end of the cable is secured
to the handle by a small plastic tab (yellow arrow in picture below)
which fits into a threaded groove.
22. Pop the tab on the end of the cable out of its retaining groove
using a small screwdriver, as shown below. Before doing this, note the
position of the tab in the groove so that it can be reinstalled in approximately
the same position later.
23. The picture below shows the tab detached from the retaining groove.
24. Remove the two door lock module bolts on the rear edge of the door
using the 8mm triple square tool (M8 / 8mm XZN Spline Tool). The bolts
are indicated by the yellow arrows in the picture below. The 8mm triple
square tool (M8 / 8mm XZN Spline Tool) is also shown below.
25. Pop off the rubber grommet and push in the wire loom retaining clip
indicated by the yellow arrows in the picture below.
26. The grommet and retaining clip should look like they do in the picture
below when step 25 is completed.
27. Put a sheet or blanket on the ground below the door and over the
door sill (as shown below) to protect the sill and carrier panel when
the panel is removed from the door.
28. Remove the ten (10) 10mm bolts that secure the carrier panel to
the door. The locations of the bolts are indicated by the yellow arrows
in the picture below.
29. Starting at the rear bottom corner of the panel, pull the bottom
of the panel away from the door slightly, as shown below. You may have
to move the panel up or down slightly to wiggle the bottom of the panel
out of the door. This step may be very difficult to perform if the window
glass is still sitting at the bottom of the door, especially if one
of the regulator clips is still attached to the bottom of the window.
If this is the case, then this is the point in the DIY that you might
have to be creative in order to complete the removal of the carrier
panel from the door.
30. While holding the bottom of the panel away from the door (and also
supporting its weight), reach behind the panel from below and push the
six (6) wire loom retaining clips out of the panel. The locations of
the clips are indicated by the yellow arrows in the picture below. If
you yank on the clips from the front of the panel, you will almost surely
damage them, making it difficult to reattach them when reinstalling
31. A close-up of one of the wire loom retaining clips is shown below.
The clips are held in place by small tabs on opposite sides of the clip,
indicated by the yellow arrows. Push in on these tabs simultaneously
and push the clip out of the panel.
32. Once the tabs are out, lift up on the panel slightly, pull the bottom
of the panel away from the door, and then lower the panel toward the
ground and toward the front of the car. It is necessary to do this because
the window tracks extend above the top of the carrier panel inside the
door (blue arrows in picture below) and the door lock module extends
to the right of the panel inside the door (red arrow in picture below).
If you are removing the carrier panel with the door lock module still
bolted to the edge of the door, you do not need to slide the carrier
panel toward the front of the car when removing it since the lock module
is not attached and will not impede its motion. You'll only need to
lower the panel so that the window tracks clear. Also pay careful attention
to the inner door handle cable and door lock pin when removing the panel
as they are attached to the door lock module and must slide out of the
33. Once the panel is removed from the door, disconnect the harness
connector for the door lock module by pressing down on the tab indicated
by the yellow arrow in the picture below and then sliding the harness
connector away from the lock module. (FYI, the lock module on the driver's
side door is shown in the picture below in case someone notices some
inconsistencies in the appearance of the harness/lock module relative
to the carrier panel.)
34. Pull the door lock module wire bunch (indicated by the yellow arrow
in the picture below) and harness connector through the hole in the
carrier panel. The panel should now be completely disconnected from
35. If you plan on replacing the window regulator clips, go directly
to Part II (below).
always, do this procedure at your own risk. I am not responsible for
any mistakes in the procedure or those that you make while performing