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STARTING AND RUNNING IN PROCEDURE
Please read all the below very carefully and follow every step fully. Almost all the technical help questions we get asked and problems encountered by beginners can be solved if this guide is followed. If something is different in the manual please go on what it says below, not in the manual.
AA. Before use
Before using any nitro model it is important that you check the following:
* Receiver Battery
* Radio Battery
* Glow Plug is tight and glow start is fully charged
* Ensure engine flywheel is tight and tighten if needed (IMPORTANT OR THE FLYWHEEL WILL WEAR AWAY)
* Loctite/tighten any loose nuts, screws or bolts. ie: set screws, engine mount screws, wheel nuts, etc
* Clutch-bell and Spur Gear mesh (IMPORTANT OR YOU WILL STRIP YOUR GEARS)
* Pullstart engine screws
* Nylon ties for exhaust
* Clean & Re-Oil or replace Foam Air Filter element
* Ensure all servo & throttle linkage is straight at 90 degrees & in proper alignment when the radio equipment is turned on. Adjust if needed.
* Ensure fuel system is free of obstruction, line pinches, dirt & leaks
* Clean entire car after every tank - watch for sand, rocks, mud, debris or anything that will hinder proper operation and maintenance
The above maintenance should be observed ideally after every run.
The main adjustment screw would have been pre-set at the factory and we would have double checked it to make sure it is correct for running the engine in. In 99% of cases this screw will not need touching until after you have run the engine in if you wish to fine tune it. If you do loose the starting position of the screw or want to check it then the top of the screw should be just 1 - 2 mm below the top of the screw casing.
BB. Running in procedure
The engine has to be Run-in before full-time use. It is very important that this procedure is carried out. Not doing so will shorten the life and reduce the overall performance of your engine.
To run your car in, take your finished model and roll it back and forth to be certain the car’s wheels can turn freely. Place the car in a position so that the wheels are off the ground, for example on a heavy box or brick, and follow the starting procedures as listed below. Once it starts and is idleing slowly place it on the ground and drive it slowly on a flat surface. For the first use do not let the engine run for more then 3 minutes. Carry on running slowly for short periods until you have gone through 2 - 3 tanks of fuel. Use good quality fuel with around 10 - 20% mix. Ensure that the idle speed is not to high or else you will burn your clutch out or snap the con rod, and also make sure that the brake is not applied.
Do not over accelerate at all during this procedure, as it can severly damage the engine. After each idling time, let the car rest for about 10 minutes between each tank. Running in makes sure that the engine is operating correctly before you take it out for a proper run. Never accelerate the engine while all four wheels are off the ground, as this will break the conrod or other important components.
CC. Starting procedure
1. Fill the fuel Tank and check that the fuel lines are secure and free of kinks to ensure clear fuel flow.
2. Prime the engine with fuel by putting your finger over the exhaust or air intake and then pulling the starter until you see the fuel reach the engine. Once you see the fuel reach the engine pull the starter another couple of times to spread fuel through the engine.
3. Attach your glow start to the glow plug (located on top of the engine cooling head)
4. Pull the recoil starter with short quick jabs. Avoid pulling the recoil cord 100% of it's length as this will damage the starting spring, and this is not covered by the motor’s warranty. If the pull start becomes very hard to pull then it means the engine is flooded. In this case you must NOT pull the start again until you have un-flooded the engine or else you will break it. If the engine is cold you may need to open the throttle a TINY bit just to help it start. If the engine is cold you may need to pull the start a good few times, the trick is to pull it quickly and consistently
5. If the setting are correct the engine should start. Disconnect the glow clip as soon as the engine is running.
The main needle adjustment is used to adjust the fuel to air mixture when you are accelerating. Once the engine is run in if it is spitting fuel from the exhaust you may want to turn the adjustment screw a little clockwise just a mm or so. Do not over tighten it though as this will overheat the engine and could melt the parts. When you make a change to the adjustment screw the changes will not take effect until after a couple of minutes running.
TROUBLESHOOTING
How To Change Your Clutch.
To remove the clutch shoes or the flywheel, follow the following steps.
Step 1
Remove engine from model and clean off all dirt and grime.
Step 2
Remove the clutch bell by removing the screw at the end of the crankshaft. If the Flywheel turns, put a tip of a small screwdriver (or similar) into the hole in the fluwheel spacer (behind the flywheel towards the engine) as you loosen the screw.
Step 3
Remove the clutch bell. Now you will see the clutch shoes. Take note of the direction the clutch shoes are installed in a "69" position. You want the shoes to follow the direction of the engine. Pull the clutch shoes off leaving the spring around them. You should now just be left with the flywheel. If you need to remove the flywheel, then with a 5/16th (8mm / glow plug spanner) nut driver, loosen the clutch nut. The flywheel should now come off; it may require a few taps to break it loose.
 
Step 4
Check all parts for wear and replace as needed. Check the inside of the clutch bell for material left by the clutch shoes. Check for material melted to the inside of the clutch bell.
Check the two bearings in the clutch bell. Are they smooth? They should be smooth and not be gritty or locked up. If they are, you need to replace them before reinstalling.
Step 5
Make sure to get the clutch nut on tight. You don't want your flywheel coming loose while your running.
How To Fit The Advanced Clutch Shoes On To A Nitro Engine
The Advanced clutch shoes have a different spring system and it is important that they are put on the correct way or else the clutch shoes will expand to easily so the car will not be able to idle.
Step 1:
Start by placing one of the shoes onto the tip of one of the flywheel pins as shown in the diagram below. Be careful to note the direction of the shoe making sure you do not have it on back to front. The pin should not go all the way through the shoe, just enough so that the shoe is resting on the pin.
Step 2:
Place the spring into the clutch shoe as shown below so that the long side of the spring is resting against the flat part of the outside of the shoe and the short side of the spring is resting against the bottom of the flywheel bolt.
Step 3:
Position the spring so that the loop of the spring is lined up with the hole in the clutch shoe.
Step 4:
The loop in the spring will not naturally line up with the hole in the shoe so you will have to use some kind of tool such as a screwdriver to line the loop and hole up and then at the same time push the shoe and spring towards the flywheel so the pin goes through the loop in the spring and then through the other side of the shoe.
Step 5:
The final step is just to repeat the same again but with the other shoe and then that's it! It should look like this when finished.
How To Fix or Change Your Pull Starter.
If you break your pull start we would recommend you purchase a new one as fixing them can be quite difficult. You can get a new pull start from our ebay shop or you could go for an electric starter instead which are also available called a tiger drive.
If you do want to attempt to repair it you can follow these instructions:
Remove the recoil starter by removing the four screws that attach the started to the engine. Next remove the one-way hub from the center of the spool. Untie the knot that holds the handle on the cord. Let the cord pull into the housing. Next Carefully disassemble the recoil using extra caution with the recoil spring.
 
Step 1
To reassemble the starter, start by inserting the end of the spring into the slot on the starter spool. Slowly wrap the spring around the inside of the spool like the picture.
 
Step 2
Insert the spool into the recoil housing. Insert the end of the cord through the hole in the outer casing. At this time tie a temporary knot in the end of cord.
 
Step 3
With the cord through the hole and the spool inside the housing, its time to coil up the spring. Using a pair of needle nosed pliers, grip the spring through the center of the spool at the bend. Make sure the cord is not pulled into the house or you need to start all over. While holding the center of the spring turn and coil the spring clock-wise to tighten the tension. Turn the spring one full rotation and put the end of the spring into the spring mount in the center of the housing.
 
Step 4
Now you need to put your handle back onto the cord. While holding the cord from being pulled back into untie the temporary knot that was tied in step 2, Slid the handle spacer then the handle onto the cord. You now need to tie a double knot into the end to prevent the cord from being pulled back in. Please note it may be difficult to hold the cord and tie a knot at the same time. You may want someone to help you. Your recoil should now work correctly.
 
What to do if your nitro model won't start
It is VERY rare that a fault can be traced back to the engine. Check the following points below before considering the engine to be faulty.
1. Check the flywheel is not loose. You should not be able to turn the flywheel without also turning the engine. If the flywheel is loose you will need to tighten the flywheel bolt. If the flywheel is loose the engine will usually start but then cut out straight away.
2. Do the wheels turn when you pull the starter? If so the clutch shoes have melted and will need replacing - part 30118 or 21027.
3. Has the Glow Plug burned out ? Remove the glow plug and check if it is glowing. Do this by attaching the glow plug to the glow start directly and the coil in the bottom of the glow plug should glow bright red in a matter of seconds. Engines will not start if the glow plug is dim or not glowing at all.
Solution: Replace the battery and/or glow plug
4. Is the recoil starter hard to pull ? If the recoil starter is hard to pull this means that the engine is flooded (there is too much fuel in the combustion chamber). At this point don't pull the recoil starter any more - doing so will damage the recoil spring. or break the pull cord. Any misuse of the recoil starter unit will void the manufacturers warranty.
Solution : Remove the glow plug from the heat sink head and turn the car upside down. Now pull the recoil starter a few times to expell the excess fuel out of the combustion chamber. Replace the glow plug and start again.
5. Does the car start, but stalls when the glow clip is removed ? If this happens it’s a possibility that the car is idling too low
Solution: Look down at the carburettor from above. It should be all but closed, with just a 1 to 2 mm gap to allow the air in. The idle setting can be changed by turning the idle screw in or out.(The idle screw is generally located right next to the carburettor barrel)
6. Go to the top of this page and make sure you have carried out all the steps to pre-use and starting correctly and carefully.
What to do if the engine revs but the car does not move
If you have a 2 speed model the first gear in the gearbox (the bigger one) will have a one way bearing in the middle of it. This is a bearing that sits on the gearbox shaft that will spin in one direction but not spin in the other direction. In cold conditions it is possible for one way bearings to fail as if the grease that is on the bearing gets to cold it solidifies and causes the bearing to slip. If this happens the first thing to try is to warm the gearbox up for 5 - 10 minutes using a hairdryer which will hopefully solve the problem. If it does not you will need to take the gearbox out and take the first gear off to reveal the one way bearing and shaft. Using some wd40 or similar you need to give both the shaft and the middle of the one way bearing a really good clean so there is no grease left on it at all and then put it back together which will solve the problem. Taking the gearbox out is easy but takes a little time. Undo the four screws on the bottom of the chassis that hold the gearbox on and then undo the screws that hold the upper chassis on. You will not be able to take the upper chassis off as the servo wire will still be connected but you will be able to move the upper chassis so that you can then get the gearbox in and out ok. Getting the drive shafts back in the drive cups is a little fiddley but if you use some pliers or something to hold them it's not to difficult.
FAQ'S
Q. What else do I need to run the model?
A. All our models come with the radio control and servos included and installed. All you will need to run is some AA batteries, model glow fuel (we reccommend Tornado 16% nitro fuel, available from Halfords) and a standard glow start. These items are between £10 - £15 each from most model shops.
Q. How long does the fuel last?
A. A tank of fuel will last about 10 - 15 minutes. A 2.50 litre bottle of fuel should be enough to fill the tank about 33 times. The good thing about nitro models though is you do not need to wait for the to charge, you can just fill them up and keep on going.
Q. Why did my con rod break?
A. The only way that a con rod can break is either the engine is revved with no load or there is not enough fuel in the engine so there is not enough lubrication which causes the piston to jam. You should be careful not to rev the engine if the wheels are off the ground, if the flywheel is loose or if the model does a jump. Con rods are not covered by the warranty but available as a spare part.
Q. Why do my wheels turn when I pull the pull start?
A. If you are unable to pull the pull start without the wheels turning it means your clutch shoes have probably melted. This happens when the car has been incorrectly adjusted so that the brake is slightly on when the throttle is in the neutral position. They can also melt if the wheels or truck is held still while the engine is revving or if the idle speed is to high. If this happens you will simply need to purchase a new clutch shoe and replace the melted one.
Q. Why did my gears strip?
A. Stripping a spur gear (a flat spot on the plastic gear that turns the drivetrain of the car) is not caused by the spur gear or pinion gear. A stripped spur gear is caused by the pinion gear not having the correct mesh with the spur gear. Q. How can I get correct gear mesh?
A. The easiest way to learn that you have the correct gear mesh is to use a piece of paper and fit it between the spur gear and pinion gear as you tighten the motor mount screws. After the motor is completely tightened, the piece of paper should be impossible to remove except by turning the spur gear to rotate the paper out of place. With the paper gone, turn the spur gear with a finger and feel the amount of movement or "play" there is between the spur gear and pinion gear. There should be very little play, but you should feel a little bit. This is the correct gear mesh. With practice, you will no longer strip any spur gears.
Make sure the motor mount screws are very tight, a big crash could move the motor towards or away from the spur gear, making the spur gear strip out.
Q. What maintenance will I need to do?
A. Please see the before use section at the top of this page for maintenance details.
Q. Why did my flywheel wear away?
A. If the bolt holding the flywheel on is not tight and you continue to use the car it will start to wear the flywheel away. You should check that the flywheel is tight before each run.
Q. My 2 speed is not shifting.
A. Unless something is not adjusted properly or broken, the 2 speed should shift into second when the engine is sufficiently warmed up (usually a minute or two of starting the engine). If it does not shift, use a 2mm Allen wrench to adjust the shift point set screw counterclockwise. Turn the set screw 1/4 turn at a time and make a test run to see if the car shifts into second. If it does not, turn the set screw 1/4 turn more and try again. Make sure not to touch the center set screw! The center set screw holds the 2 speed in place on the gear shaft.
HELICOPTER HELP
What to do if your helicopter battery will not charge:
If you have a 6ch heli with a lithium battery you may find the battery will not charge using the lithium charger. Lithium batteries are quite sensitive and if this happens it means the battery has disscharged to much. The solution is to give the battery a 5 - 10 minute direct charge using a direct charger (like used to charge normal heli batteries etc) and then use the lithium charger to fully charge the battery. WARNING - do not direct charge a lithium battery for more than 10 minutes which could be dangerous and cause the battery to explode. If you do not have a direct charger you can post the battery to us and we will charge it for you and then next time you will not need to do this as long as you do not let the battery disscharge to much.
What to do if the heli wont calibrate:
The heli will not calibrate if the controller is not set correctly. For it to calibrate you need to make sure the controller settings are as follows:
1. The left control is stick is all the way down
2. The left trim is all the way down
3. The rev. switches are DOWN, UP, DOWN, UP in that order from left to right
4. If you have a 6ch heli you need to make sure the idle switch is in the off position
Once you have the controller set like this try again and it should callibrate. | 
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