The chest / waist size (in inches) that we show in the item title is the ‘size to fit the wearer’. The letter (R/S/L) denotes the length:
R = Regular fitting (for chaps between 5’ 7" – 5’ 11" tall)
S = Short fitting (5’ 2" – 5’ 6" tall)
L = Long fitting (6’- 6’ 5" tall)
For example, if your chest measures 42 inches, and you are of average height, a jacket or coat listed as ‘42R’ will normally be a good fit. When estimating the ‘size to fit’ we take into account the garment cut & how it is meant to be worn.
Measurements
For extra reassurance we also show the actual measurements for each garment. This information is especially important when considering the purchase of a bespoke tailored piece that, by it's nature, will not be cut to a standard pattern.
All measurements are taken with the garment laid flat, without stretching the material.
Standard sleeve jackets, coats and all tailcoats
a = underarm to underarm
b = underarm seam to cuff
c = shoulder to cuff
d = across fastening
Measured at back:
e = shoulder
f = length (excluding collar) from nape of neck to hem
Here's a real-life example:
Underarm to underarm measurement of 21.5"
Raglan sleeve coats
a = underarm to underarm
b = underarm to cuff
c = sleeve from centre of nape to cuff measured along seam
Measured at back:
d = length (excluding collar) from nape of neck to hem
Waistcoats
a = underarm to underarm
b = length from shoulder seam to parallel with tips
Measured at back:
c = length from nape of neck to hem
How to measure yourself
You’ll need a tailor’s tape measure and someone to help you. If there’s no one around to help you, we recommend you select an item you already own that fits you well. Lay it flat without stretching the material. For a two button jacket, fasten the top button only. On a three button jacket, fasten the top and middle buttons. You can then compare these with the measurements in the listing for a good idea of likely fit.
Chest: With your arms at your sides, measure around the fullest part of your chest, across shoulder blades and under arms. If measuring a jacket you already own, the measuring tape should extend from underarm to underarm.
Trouser Waist: Measure the waist below the navel. The measuring tape should be snug (do not measure over your belt). If measuring a pair of trousers you already own, lay the trousers flat and measure across the inside of the full width of the waistband, then double that measurement. Tell the truth!
Inside leg: Unless you know each other intimately, this measurement is done with trousers on! Place the measuring tape at the crotch of the trousers and measure down to the bottom of the ankle. If measuring a pair of trousers you already own, lay the trouser leg out flat but not stretched and measure from hem to crotch.
A few points to remember
We sometimes need to ignore the size labels on vintage garments as they were often sized a little smaller in the old days. Over the years we have got used to ‘vanity sizing’! (The one exception is vintage overcoat sizing.) Also, garments may have been altered by a previous owner.
Garments can often be professionally altered at very reasonable cost. While we always recommend that you wait until you’ve tried your item on before making alterations, we’ll be happy to advise in advance on the feasibility & estimate costs for any alterations you have in mind.
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