A SHORT GLOSSARY AND EXPLANATION
OF SOME CARTOGRAPHIC & PRINTING TERMS
THE
MAIN PRINTING PROCESSES
Over the centuries there have
been 3 main methods to prepare the
'plate' from which both text and images
were printed
RELIEF
(Wood engravings)
These involved using WOOD as the
material on which the image to be
printed was created.
The wood was cut away
from the area which was NOT to be
printed, leaving the image to be printed
standing up from the 'block', as it was
called. In many cases, notably by the
Illustrated London News, Harpers,
and the numerous similar publications
throughout the world, several smaller
blocks were made and then joined to form
a single larger print.
For a more comprehensive study
of the history and practice of Wood
Engraving
CLICK HERE
INTAGLIO (
Copper
and
steel
engravings)
Up to about 1830, COPPER was
used. Then STEEL, which was more durable
and enabled many more copies to be
printed from the original 'plate'.
The image was cut INTO the
metal, in 'reverse' or 'mirror' of the
original drawing. This was done by using
special engraving tools. ETCHINGS were
created by using acid to burn away the
metal.
LITHOGRAPHY
( Surface printing )
This process was invented at the
end of the 18th century, but did not
come into common use until the latter
part of the 19th century, when the
process was adapted to mechanisation. The design was drawn on to a
flat STONE surface, using a greasy ink,
which was then 'fixed' chemically.
[Wikipedia] Lithography uses
simple chemical processes to
create an image. For instance,
the positive part of an image is
a hydrophobic, or "water hating"
substance, while the negative
image would be hydrophilic or
"water loving". Thus, when the
plate is introduced to a
compatible printing ink and
water mixture, the ink will
adhere to the positive image and
the water will clean the
negative image. This allows a
flat print plate to be used,
enabling much longer and more
detailed print runs than the
older physical methods of
printing (e.g., intaglio
printing, Letterpress printing).
Lithography was invented by
Alois Senefelder in Bohemia in
1796. In the early days of
lithography, a smooth piece of
limestone was used (hence the
name "lithography"—"lithos" (λιθος)
is the ancient Greek word for
stone). After the oil-based
image was put on the surface, a
solution of gum arabic in water
was applied, the gum sticking
only to the non-oily surface.
During printing, water adhered
to the gum arabic surfaces and
avoided the oily parts, while
the oily ink used for printing
did the opposite. Most books,
indeed all types of high-volume
text, are now printed using
offset lithography, the most
common form of printing
production.
CHROMO LITHO
This process was a form of
lithograph which involved using many
metal and stone plates. Each plate
contained various different parts of the
design executed with a range of coloured
inks. These were printed in series to
create an image with many tones, shades
and textures.
COLOURING
The very earliest maps and
engravings, by such a
Sebastian MUNSTER,
in the 16th Century, were never intended
to be coloured.
It was not until the 17th
Century, when the superb maps by
BLAEU
and others were individually coloured by
hand at that time. The depth and
splendour of some of the early colours
was based on the preparation of
pigments, some of which are not now
available - a lost art.
ORIGINAL COLOUR
Maps and prints which were
coloured at the time of printing. Some
care must be taken when buying these, to
ensure that no oxydization has taken
place - Greens and browns in particular
tend to 'burn' through the paper. You
should always hold any item you are
interested in up to the light, to check
not just for any such 'burning', but
also to see whether there are any
defects, such as small worm holes,
evidence of repairs, etc.
LATER COLOUR
Many antique maps or prints that
were originally published uncoloured,
have had modern colouring applied, or
can be coloured to order. Normally a
builder's 'size' will be applied to the
surface of the print before colouring,
to prevent the paint 'burning' the
paper.
It is very much a matter of
personal taste, as to whether you have
any pieces coloured. The purists will
argue that the map or engraving should
be left in its original state. Others
may prefer the added enjoyment of seeing
their collection in attractive colours,
particularly when the intention is to
matt and frame them for display in the
home or work place.
AUTHENTICATION
As ever, in the world of
Antiques, your primary protection is the
integrity, expertise and reputation of
the Seller. My husband, before he
retired, having spent many years in the
map and print trade, he rarely
encountered anything that approached a
forgery. It is perhaps the feel of the
paper, the crispness of the printed
impression that distinguish the genuine
article. Whenever possible, I provide a
photocopy of the Title page of the Atlas
or Book from which the map or print
came.
Modern reproductions are of
course on the market, but these are
normally quite recognisable as such,
indeed are so modern in appearance as to
be readily distinguished from an
original.
Restoration is another matter.
So much antique furniture has been
restored or 'married' over the years,
that to find a piece in truly original
condition is becoming quite rare. Some
antique maps may have had minor repairs
carried out to, say, a slightly torn
fold. It is ALWAYS advisable to hold
anything you are considering buying up
to a bright light - this will quickly
reveal any repairs or restoration that
may have been carried out.
PAPER USED FOR ANTIQUE MAPS &
PRINTS
When the potential fragility of
maps is considered, it is remarkable
that so many have survived in good
condition for over three or four hundred
years. We can but admire the quality of
the hand-made paper on which they were
produced and the splendid binding of the
early 'Atlases'.
Apart from those manuscript maps
and charts produced on vellum or
parchment, most early maps which we are
likely to find were printed on strong,
thick hand-made paper from France,
Germany and Switzerland and the finest
of all in the Ancona area of Northern
Italy.
In England, paper was made on a
limited scale during the 16th century,
but in general French paper was imported
until about 1610, when good home
produced handmade paper became available
in quantity. Practically all such paper
bore a watermark, which can be a useful
guide in dating a map, although the
evidence of such marks should be treated
with caution. A batch of paper might be
used for a limited number of prints over
perhaps as long as 20 to 30 years, but
considered in conjunction with other
clues, a date of printing can sometimes
be closely determined. The absence of a
watermark in no way implies that a map
is a fake nor does it have any effect on
value. The size of paper on which maps
were produced was almost standard and
was conditioned by the size of the trays
used in paper making - 28 x 24 ins.- and
by the size of the presses available.
In the early days of
paper-making, hand-made paper was
produced almost entirety from linen and
rags pulped in water. After thorough
mixing, a close meshed wire tray was
dipped into the pulp and sufficient
lifted out to give the required
thickness of paper. The water was
drained off, the sheet subsequently
dried between layers of felt and then
hung to dry. The wire mesh of the tray
produced the vertical and horizontal
lines apparent on holding the paper up
to the light.
The industrial revolution,
brought with it great advances in paper
making.
For
more detailed information, please see :-
American Museum of Papermaking
SOME CARTOGRAPHIC TERMS
-
SIZES
-
FOLIO - THE OVERALL PAPER
SIZE WILL BE AROUND 25x20 INCHES
(650x500mm)
-
QUARTO [4to] - AN OVERALL
SIZE OF ABOUT 13x10 inches
(320x250mm). (Roughly equivalent to
a modern normal A4 letter heading
size)
-
OCTAVO [8vo] - THE OVERALL
SIZE IS some 7x5 inches (180x125mm)
-
DATES - Dates stated are those when
the item was actually
published/printed. I NEVER offer
modern date reproductions.
Please note that dates shown in
square brackets, e.g. [1830] are
approximate or circa.
-
ARTIST
- The Latin abbreviation 'del', or '
delin' means that the original was
DRAWN by.
-
CARTOGRAPHER - A map
maker or geographer.
-
CARTOUCHE
- The decorative design, usually
surrounding the Title Panel.
See further example.
-
ENGRAVER
- A specialist who transferred the
artist's drawing onto the 'plate'.
The Latin words 'sculp', or 'sculspit'
may proceed his name.
-
FOXING - A light
brown speck or spot which appears on
some old maps or prints. Due to
aging, and caused by a fungus.
Easily cleaned, but cleaning is
usually best left to a professional.
NEVER attempt to clean a map or
engraving which has original
colouring.
-
LAID DOWN - This
process is usually used to protect a
damaged map. Great care should be
exercised before buying any laid
down item. The map or print has been
stuck or glued down on to card or
other suitable backing.
-
PLATE - The wood,
copper, steel or lithographic base
used to engrave the image. On many
prints and marks the 'Plate Mark' is
clearly visible. A small indentation
in the paper, a few inches inside
the outer extremities of the paper.
This occurred when the printing
'pressed' the plate onto the paper.
-
VIGNETTE - please see
our
FEATURE PAGE
which contains several scanned
images of Vignette Views. Some maps
contain small vignettes,
Particularly those by
John TALLIS.
-
WATERMARK - A normally
invisible emblem and/or date
incorporated into the paper when it
was made. Held up to the light, the
watermark is normally visible. Not
all early paper was produced with a
watermark.
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