Whitemetal is the generic name given to alloys compounded of lead, tin and a number of other trace ingredients present in much smaller quantities. The ratio of lead to tin and the presence, or not, of the other constituents determines the precise physical properties of the metal itself. We select the grade of metal best suited to the manufacture of this type of model. It is reasonably malleable and so any castings that should be straight and which exhibit slight bends can be gently put back into shape.
If there are small amounts of ‘flash’ on the edges of the castings these can be trimmed by scraping with a modelling knife or file. Any castings attached to ‘feeds’ should be separated by cutting with a sharp knife of snipping with cutters. The feeds may need gentle removal, this is best achieved with a file. Cheap needle files are ideal for this purpose and come in a variety of shapes depending on the casting you are working with.
We try to ensure that only high quality castings are selected for each of the models but it is possible that inferior parts may occasionally be included. If you are unhappy with any parts then please return them to us for replacement.
Assembly, where required, and painting can be accomplished in a number of ways and the ideas given below are not intended to be exhaustive. As in any process such as this a little patience and care will tend to pay dividends in the level of finish that can be achieved. It is possible to assemble the models using either glues or solder techniques.
Super glue this gives fast results but is not ideal for parts that have significant gaps between them as it is not designed for use as a filler. It is by its nature fast acting and quite permanent and if you have the parts wrongly aligned separation can be difficult. Having said this you normally have several seconds to make any final adjustments. The best results are usually obtained using a gel type. This has a consistency similar to toothpaste and is easier to control. This type will tend to stay where it is put rather than run down the castings and this can be useful in aligning small components and thin edges.
Epoxy glues these come in two parts which need to be mixed and have various setting times allowing adjustment to be made in alignment. Premature handling can be fatal however and assembly will usually take longer with this method. Excess glue can be hard to remove carefully from the finished model and you should only mix small quantities of the glue at a time or else it will harden before you have used it.
Whatever glue is used some preparation will pay dividends, firstly always check on fit etc by having a dry run of parts. Once you are happy with the fit and any unwanted material has been filed away then it will pay to clean the surfaces. Glues do not stick effectively to a layer of grease, dirt and oxide. It is possible to use de-greasing solvents but at the very least the
surface of the metal joints should be cleaned with a light rub with a coarse abrasive (file or emery paper for example). This will also provide more of a key for the adhesive. Only small amounts of adhesive should be used and always follow the safety guidelines (especially regarding smoking and ventilation).
Solder Whitemetal has a similar melting point to that of electrical solder and if you attempt to use a standard wattage iron you will simply melt the castings. You must use a low wattage iron (12-15 watts) , low melt solder and a low temperature flux. Useful tips on technique can be found in many publications including Carrs soldering handbook, Iain Rices book on whitemetal Locos (Wild Swan) and The art of soldering by R Brewster (Bernard Babani Publishing Ltd).
It is possible to simply paint the castings as they come but again the best results can only be obtained with some preparation. Firstly ensure that the model is as you require it, any unwanted flash etc should have been removed already and now any gaps etc will need filling, Car body filler is ideal for this purpose and any excess can easily be rubbed down. Best results will be achieved if the model is gently washed to remove grease, fingerprints etc. Warm soapy water is ideal and an old toothbrush will allow you to gently treat the surface. If you have soldered it is very important that you remove all traces of flux and this is best achieved by gentle scrubbing with a liquid cleaner (Ajax is ideal). When you have finished handle with tweezers or a kitchen towel and leave to dry in a dust free environment (under a margarine tub on a tray works well).
A coat of primer will be an excellent preparation and relatively cheap spray cans can be bought from most model or car accessory shops. If you are planning to use one basic colour it is possible to spray the model this colour and then to paint the detail over the top. It is easier to paint darker colours over lighter bases than the other way round. The choice of finish (matt/ gloss etc) is one of personal preference as is the subsequent use of varnish.
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