Africa Direct

Many of our customers have heard of “African Trade Beads” long before we meet them. For most, the term brings to mind images of old glass beads patterned with brightly colored flowers, stripes, dots and swirls. And, because the beads are referred to as “African,” our customers quite understandably assume that they come from Africa. This assumption is partially correct—the beads do come to us from Africa. But Africa is only one stop on a worldwide journey.

The journey begins in the major bead-making centers of Europe, most notably Venice, Italy, Idar-Oberstein, Germany, and the Czech-Bohemian region. Most “African Trade Beads” were produced during the period of European expansion and colonialism, from the 16th through the middle of the 20th century. They were created for export to Africa, Asia and the Americas, where they were highly prized and could be exchanged for valuable commodities. In Africa, specific types of beads were often used to acquire specific goods—some beads fetched gold, some ivory, and some, tragically, slaves.

“African Trade Beads” experienced a surge in popularity in the 1960s as traders began carrying them out of Africa and reselling them in Europe and the United States. Something about Venetian millefiori (thousand flower) beads made them a particular favorite of hippies everywhere, and they became as associated with the Free Love generation as the peace symbol. Other trade beads acquired names their creators never intended for them, names based on folklore about the origins and uses of the beads. You’ll find many of these fanciful names in our listings: “Dutch Donuts,” “Lewis and Clark Beads,” “French Ambassador Beads,” and so on.

The history of European glass trade beads has by now been well documented and the beads themselves are much sought after. Meanwhile, African beads—beads made in Africa—have received far less attention. This is a terrible oversight. Africa has a bead-making tradition of its own which can be traced all the way back to the 37,000-year-old ostrich eggshell heishi found in Kenya’s Rift Valley. Over the millenia, African bead-makers have skillfully crafted beads from almost all available materials: shell, bone, ivory, amber, clay, wood, seeds, stone, metal and glass. Independent and highly successful bead and jewelry-making operations exist among the Coptic Christians of Ethiopia, the Yoruba of Nigeria, the Ashanti and Krobo peoples of Ghana, the nomadic Tuareg traveling the lands around the Sahara Desert, and in otherwise obscure locations such as Kiffa, Mauritania, and Akyem Abompe, Ghana. African-made beads are every bit as intricate, imaginative and visually impressive as those produced in Europe.

At Africa Direct, we appreciate and sell both “African Trade Beads” and African-made beads. As a seller with a foot in both worlds, however, we have a unique opportunity to bring attention to the latter. Our most recent book, African Beads: Jewels of a Continent, is our attempt to focus a spotlight on African-made beads. It’s a huge, glossy coffee table book dedicated exclusively to beads made in Africa and filled with mouth-watering color photographs. If you’re interested and would like to learn more, please contact us.